(Written by Kathleen Neves for Skin Deep Magazine, November/December 2011 issue.)
Now, more than ever, clients are questioning what is being put into the skincare products they use. With terms such as natural and organic being thrown around the industry, it’s important to know not only what these terms mean, but how they affect the way the product is labeled, the way the ingredients are listed on the packaging, an the overall effectiveness of the products.
Terms Defined
What exactly does it mean when a products is labeled natural or organic? How do you explain the difference to a client?
In the broadest sense, a natural product is something that originated from a plant or animal source, and an organic product is natural product that was grown without the use artificial fertilizers, herbicides, or pesticides. Many ingredients used in beauty, makeup, and skin care products are already derived from plant sources. But exact definitions vary. Ruth Winter, in her book A Consumer’s Diction of Cosmetic Ingredients (Three Rivers Press, 2009), defines a natural product as one that is extracted directly from plant or animal products, as opposed to being produced synthetically. Others say a plant extract created artificially in the laboratory also counts as natural, since it is plant-based and chemically identical to the traditionally harvested plant.
In the world of skin care, the biggest difference between products labeled natural and organic is the amount of regulation imposed by the government. The US government does not regulate natural skin care products, which means anything can be labeled or described as natural, regardless of what it contains or how it was produced. Organic products, however, are heavily regulated by the government.
Organic Isn’t Easy
The US Department of Agriculture (USDA) sets strict regulations for organic products: how ingredients must be grown and processed; where the word organic can appear on the product label; and how the label may be presented on the actual product. Growers must adhere to a special system of farming that maintains and replenishes the soil fertility without the use of toxic materials such as pesticides or fertilizers. Third-party certifiers appointed by the USA enforce these regulations with annual inspections of organic farms and processing facilities.
The National Organic Program (NOP) is a government agency that works with the USDA to help regulate the use of organic ingredients in skin care products, and to make sure that these types of products are correctly labeled. There are four labeling categories for certified products:
100 percent organic;
Organic:
Made with organic ingredients; and
Less than 70 percent organic ingredients.
Products in any of these four categories can legally use the word organic, but different conditions apply to each. If a company uses the word incorrectly, outside of these regulations and the USDA certification program, the NOP can impose an $11,000 fine on the brand for each incorrectly labeled product.
100 Percent Organic
In this category are products that have been certified by the government as containing 100 percent organic ingredients. The product is permitted to display the USDA Organic label on the front of the packaging.
Organic
The government certifies that products in this category contain at least 95 percent organic ingredients. They are also permitted to bear the USDA Organic label on the front of their packaging.
Made with Organic Ingredients
Only 70 percent of ingredients need to be organic for a product to b certified in this category. These products cannot use the USDA Organic label, but are allowed to have descriptive text on the product label to say it is made with organic ingredients.
Less than 70 percent organic ingredients
These products cannot use the USDA Organic label, and the only place where the word organic can be used on the product’s packaging is in the ingredient list on the back of the product.
What’s Natural?
The main reason why the federal government doesn’t regulate natural skin care products is because there is no formal definition of what natural means within the beauty industry. Different brands may use the word in completely different ways. This creates confusion and frustration for the consumer. How can a government agency possibly regulate something if the product manufacturers themselves can’t clearly define what it is that needs to be regulated?
The Natural Products Association (NPA) is one organization attempting to establish a definition, along with fair, useful rules and regulations for products and ingredients within the beauty industry. The NPA is a nonprofit that serves as an industry watchdog on regulatory and legislative issues, and works to clear up consumer confusion about natural products.
In May 2008, the NPA, along with brands such as Burt’s Bees, JR Watkins, and Yes To Carrots, created the natural Standard for Personal Care Products. This voluntary standard is the closest thing the beauty industry has to a formal definition of natural. It consists of the following four components.
Natural.
At least 95% of the ingredients in the product must be all-natural. The NPA defines natural ingredients as those formulated without any artificial ingredients,, and minimally processed.
Safety.
The products must be completely void of any ingredients deemed harmful to human health by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
Responsibility .
The product cannot have been used in any sort of animal testing.
Sustainability.
The product, its ingredients, and its packaging must be environmentally friendly. Ingredients should be biodegradable, if possible. The product’s packaging should be made up of recycled materials, or at least be easy for the consumer to recycle.
To be considered natural by the NPA, a product must meet all four components, and its manufacturer must disclose all ingredient information, fully and accurately. A product that has met all of these requirements can use the NPA Natural Seal on its label.
The NPA Natural Seal is the closest equivalent for natural products to the USDA Organic label for organic products. The main difference is that the NPA Natural Seal is a voluntary standard that is neither required, nor endorsed, by the federal government.
