This article is taken from the July/August 2011 issue of Skin Deep Magazine
Too often, clients want an immediate appointment at a medical office, or they call to find out what actions they can take to get rid of, or decrease, the breakout. To treat acne effectively, an esthetician and physician should work together to minimize acne’s underlying causes. Clients must be on a stable skin care regimen that maintains a good balance of oil and hydration levels so that breakouts do not occur. However, this regimen may change depending on the weather, the season, and for some women, what point they are at in their menstrual cycle.
Women can have naturally occurring high levels of testosterone or a condition called polycystic ovary syndrome (POS); both can lead to increased bouts of acne. POS is a condition characterized by the accumulation of numberous cysts on the ovaries. It’s associated with high levels of male hormone, chronic anovulation (absent ovulation), and other metabolic disturbances. One of the most important characteristics of POS is hyperandrogenism — the excess production of male hormones (androgens), particularly testosterone, by the ovaries. This accounts for the male hair growth patterns and acne in women in POS. Androgen production can be reduced or blunted by taking hormone modulators prescribed by a medical professional.
Many women notice that their acne breakouts are less severe when they are taking birth control pills. This is because birth control pills cause testosterone levels to drop. These male hormones are responsible for the development of the male reproductive system and secondary male sexual characteristics, such as voice depth and facial hair. In men, testosterone is produced in large quantities by the testes, but it also occurs normally in smaller quantities in women. A side effect of testosterone production in both sexes is that it increases oil production and the frequency of acne breakouts.
There is a temporary pharmaceutical aid to treating POS, called spironolactone. Spironolactone is a diuretic, which means that it increases the amount of urine passed, causing the body to lose water and salt. It helps treat medical conditions, such as heart, liver, or kidney disease. It also (sometimes quite effectively) blocks the release of excess hormones like testosterone. However, patients must take spironolactone regularly, or hormone production simply resumes when the medication is stopped. Spironolactone can also negatively affect a male fetus, and therefore cannot be given to pregnant women or women thinking of becoming pregnant. It’s important that patients taking spironolactone are followed closely by their physician, so that blood pressure and potassium levels (which are affected by the drug) can be monitored.
This is but one of several effective medical treatments for acne, all of which require patience and adherence to a regimen for best results.
Editor’s note: This article describes the relationship between hormonal conditions and acne breakouts, and how an esthetician might be involved in treating various symptoms while working in conjunction with a physician.
