Do you have a dog in the fight?

Tonight, while I was supposed to be doing something else, I gave in to the spirit of procrastination and watched The Great Debaters movie for the first time.  I know I’m a few years late!  I love Denzel (isn’t he handsome!) and Forrest Whitaker (he can certainly play a part!), but what drew me into the movie was a perspective that I came to at the end of it:  life is about fighting for what is yours!

I’m not sure if it’s ever been put to me in those exact terms although I am sure I’ve heard it before.  It simply, most likely, sounded like this:

1)   You’ll win if you don’t quit!
2)   Persevere!
3)  The race is not given to the swift, nor to the strong, but to he who endures.

I heard the first one from TD Jakes, the second one from some person or source that I can’t recall, and the last one, a scripture, undoubtedly came during a personal encouragement session proffered by my Uncle Frank.  However, I think I’m just finally starting to get it (I’ve been told that I can be a bit slow which is why I collect turtles).

I really must fight to have the things I want, the life I want, the happiness I want, the “whatever” it is I want.  But the key isn’t the fight!  Rather, it is the absolute certainty about what it is you want.  Once you really figure out what you want, you have something to fight over, to fight for.

Think about it:  even if you are heavily invested, it is still easy to walk away from something you don’t really want.  Have you ever been dating someone, or even in a relationship, and the person does something to offend you and you just end it?  Just like that, you cut it, and him, off.  I’m willing to bet that you were waiting for some reason to go, that you were grateful for the ability to blame “quitting him” on him.  The lack of true and abiding passion and desire for a thing is what tempts you when you come across an exit sign or get a glimpse of greener grass whether that greener grass is a new lover, new job, or new whatever.

Once you figure out what you really want, your fight is born.  Life is rife with opportunity to start new things, and it is also filled with opportunities to quit things.  However, once you figure out what you want, you can set your path and priorities.  You know just what to take off your plate, and you begin working mighty hard to get the right stuff on your plate!  Once you know what you want, you petition God a bit differently.  You seek direction on “how to” rather than “whether to”.  Once you know what you want, you have a dog in the fight because you’re trying to get what you believe is yours.

Believe it or not, you’ll even take some flack over your conviction…oftentimes, a lot of flack.  In this movie, one of the main characters, Mr. Tolson (played by Denzel Washington) was pushing to organize (unionize) farmers.  He was arrested (perhaps many times) and ostracized as his organization grew to over 30,000 members.  Now, I must say that I am not excited about farming work or share-cropping.  It is possible that Mr. Tolson wasn’t either.  It is entirely possible that he was compelled, not by the labor of the farmers, but by the economic injustice being imposed upon them.  Whatever his compulsion, his logic, his rationale, his passion, once it had seared a place in his heart, he persevered.  He kept going back despite being called a communist, being asked to resign his position, and being blacklisted professionally.

Before I return to the work that I was supposed to do when I started watching the movie, I have one final point:  there is a difference between endurance and perseverance.  When you are in a thing because it is a means to an end, you endure.  Indeed, you can do many things because you have to.  How many people do you know who have jobs they hate, but stay because they are mired in debt, status, and other trappings?  How many people do you know who maintain family obligations, not because they enjoy them, but because they are bound by duty?  They may maintain their charge, but they certainly aren’t in love with it.  Even if they quit the thing, they don’t miss it.  They may miss the routine of it, the busyness of it, but not it.  Even so, there is no shame in endurance, and more people need the discipline of it.  Indeed, there is nobility in endurance; however, there is fire in perseverance!

You endure when you refuse to cave during the attack, but you persevere when you start the fight, that uphill fight!  Go fight something!  Go persevere!  ….and I’m going to do the same!

 

Testing, Testing 1-2-3

this is only a test!

 

Hazards of Waxing

This article taken from the November/December 2011 edition of Skin Deep Magazine.

Hazards of Waxing:  Handling the three most common problem by Crickett Enos*, “The Wax Chick”  crickett@thewaxchick.com  

Waxing is a daily occurrence in the life of most estheticians.  We have honed our technique, we know what wax to use, and our customer service skills are topnotch.  What else is there to know?  As professionals, it is our responsibility to know that to do when something goes awry, or when we are presented with a condition that falls outside of what we normally see.

When waxing goes wrong, the most common risks are skin lifting, ingrown hair, and the development of keloid or hypertrophic scarring.  Though these incidents may be few and far between, they can turn an otherwise ordinary waxing service into a nightmare for both client and esthetician.  That is why it is absolutely essential to know the hazards of waxing and how to mitigate problems, should they arise.

Skin Lifting Skin lifting is one waxing problem that strikes terror in the hearts of most professionals.  We’ve all be there, or imagined it:  along in the treatment room with our client, happily waxing away without a care in the world–until we remove the wax and the skin comes with it.

At the point, we’re usually wishing we had removed half an eyebrow instead.  At least then we could fill it in with pencil.  After some very choice expletives dance through our heads, we think, “How did that happen?”

Lifting happens when both dead and live skin cells are pulled off with the wax, creating an abrasion similar to scraping one’s knee.  When lifting is visible, the area will be shiny and slightly “dewy” and the client may report a stinging sensation.  However, depending on the client’s skin tone, the abrasion may not visible.  In fact, the client may not even realize that anything out of the ordinary has happened until a day or two later when a scab starts to form.

Why does skin lift?  Here are a few of the top reasons: 1)  Poor technique.  If you pull up when removing the wax, or do not hold the skin taut, this can cause lifting to occur. 2)  Incorrect wax temperature.  Both hard and soft wax will have a greater risk of causing lifting if the wax is too warm.  Soft wax an also cause lifting if it too cold, as it can become gummy on the skin. 3)  Compromised skin.  If the client’s skin is dry, dehydrated, or flakey, the risk of lifting increases. 4)  If the client is using certain medications (systemic and /or topical) that make the skin thinner or more sensitive, lifting may occur.  Two examples are prednisone or Retin-A.

If lifting happens during a waxing session, some basic first-aid treatment will be needed.  As mentioned, lifting is an abrasion and should be treated accordingly.  An abrasion will go through the normal process of scab formation, peeling, and healing. The object is to keep the skin hydrated and protected during this time to minimize the client’s discomfort.  Suggest the use of an over-the-counter salve such as Neosporin to protect the area against bacteria and keep the area hydrated.  There is not much else that can be done to speed the healing process, beyond letting nature take its course.

In the event of more severe lifting, or if there is bleeding, cover the abrasion with a bandage if possible and refer your client to a physician.

Prevention is best.   First and foremost, analyze the skin prior to waxing.  This is especially important for brow and Brazilian waxing.  Skin in these areas tends to be more delicate, making lifting more of a possibility.  On the face, women are using more anti-aging products, which can lead to even thinner skin around the eye area.  In the Brazilian area, the creases of the upper legs and buttocks make be severely dry and dehydrated–after all, who moisturizes their buttocks?

Noticing signs of compromised skin during the initial consultation can prevent pain for your client and trouble for you.  If the client’s skin is too compromised to wax, it’s always better to be safe than sorry.  let the client know why it would be unsafe to perform the service, send her home with the proper pre-wax product to improve th condition of the skin, and reschedule so that she can safely receive her waxing service at a later date.

Remember, even if have done all we can do to make sure lifting doesn’t occur, it can still happen.  The best we can do is to be prepared.

Ingrown Hair Ingrown hair can be exacerbated by waxing treatments, so it’s good to have an understanding of this condition.  An ingrown hair is a hair that gets trapped underneath the surface of the skin.  If the growing hair is able to exit the pore (follicle), its only option is to curl back down into the skin.  Ingrown hairs appear to lie flat just under the surface, running parallel with the skin, or they can turn back into the follicle, creating an infection in the skin that can exhibit as red and bumpy.

Though anyone can get them, ingrown hairs most often occur in clients with thick, coarse, and/or curly hair, and in those with an overabundance of dead cell buildup, and dry or dehydrated skin.  Friction and improper shaving or waxing techniques may also contribute to the formation of these not-so-welcome visitors.  Clients who get ingrown hairs from shaving may not get them from waxing, and vice versa; however, there are those who will get them no matter what.

so, what can we do as estheticians to help our clients deals with this troublesome condition?  As we learned earlier, if the skin is in poor condition (dry/dehydrated), the hair will not be able to exit the follicle.  Proper exfoliation plays a huge part in keeping the surface free of dead cells.  The client can exfoliate at home with a light scrub or loofah, followed by a hydrating product to keep the skin supple, which will allow the hair to break through the surface.  In-office treatments (such as a light chemical peel or hydrating treatments) may also be offered to encourage hairs to exit the pores.

The only thing that is not recommended is for the esthetician to extract an ingrown hair.  Unless the technician has been trained to do so, attempting to extract the hair can lead to infection or scarring, creating more discomfort for the client.

For the clients who are severely affected by ingrown hair, it is a good course of action to refer them to a physician or certified professional who offers clinical treatment options for hair removal, such as laser or electrolysis.  Waxing may not be the best method for these clients.  Another treatment option you can suggest to them is sugaring which removes the hair while also removing dead cell buildup, so that trapped hair can be released.  for clients who have between treatments instruct them to use a Bump Fighter razor.  These razors are designed to cut the hair just above the skin, so regrowth won’t get trapped.

Keloid and Hypertrophic Scarring Keloid and hypertrophic scars are similar in appearance and can be difficult to tell apart.  The only characteristic they share is that they are both scar tissue.

Keloids are typically thick, fibrous, tumor-like growths that extend beyond the boundaries of the original wound, such as an infected ingrown hair.  This is why, tempting as it may be, extracting an ingrown hair is not recommended–not everyone who gets ingrown hairs will experience scarring, but it is certainly a risk.  Hypertrophic scars are elevated and may resemble keloids, but they do not extend beyond the original area of the wound, and unlike keloids they may reduce over time.  In the Brazilian area, where we see raised scarring, it is most likely to be hypertrophic.

Anyone can scar, but those most prone to keloid or hypertrophic scarring are those with a genetic predisposition and those with darker skin (Fitzpatrick types IV, V, VI).

If your client has a predisposition to keloid or hypertrophic scarring, performing a thorough analysis and recommending proper aftercare is key to executing a safe hair removal service.  Exfoliation and hydration, as mentioned previously, should be used to reduce the risk of ingrown hairs so that scars do not have a chance to form.

Who knew there was so much to take into consideration when waxing?  As professionals, we need to pay attention to the skin and listen to it when it talks to us.  Lifting, ingrown hair, and scarring may not be common, but if we know what to do when we encounter these issues, we can become heroes to our clients.  Stay educated, keep current, and involve your clients in the process.

*Written by Crickett Enos, “The Wax Chick”  crickett@thewaxchick.com Cricket is a licensed esthetician in California, with more than 10 years of experience in the beauty industry, six of them as an instructor in advanced eyebrown design and Brazilian waxing.  She is also a certified makeup artist, certified Alexandria Sugaring professional, and has a degree in business administration.   This article was originally published in the November/December 2011 edition of Skin Deep Magazine published by the Associated Skin Care Professionals.

 

Working with Cancer Patients

This article taken from the January/February 2012 edition of Skin Deep Magazine.

Working with Cancer Patients:  The benefits are many, but training is key
By Mo’rag Currin

In any group of estheticians, there are those who have encountered cancer in their life’s journey.  You may be a survivor yourself, or you may have supported a family member or friend.  Whether you know it or not, its likely that you have more than one client who is a cancer survivor.

Skin care clients who are cancer survivors are not just a niche market, as evidenced by statistics about the four most common types of cancer.  According to the American Cancer Society, there are approximately 400,000 lung cancer survivors, and 13 million skin cancer survivors in the United Stated today.

Many cancer patients do not know that a visit to an experienced esthetician can provide them with a safe haven and safe treatments.  Some may have enjoyed spa visits in the past, but now do not know what  information to provide to a spa therapist about their medical condition, and some will not admit to undergoing cancer treatment.

As estheticians, our services can provide many benefits to a client undergoing cancer treatment, and most definitely during the recovery process.  Those of us who work with people undergoing cancer treatment find it both meaningful and rewarding.  The benefits of our work may seem like simple things, but they are psychologically important:

Touch during a spa treatment can soothe, comfort, and convey caring in a way words never can.  It can ease pain, lessen anxiety, and generate hope and the power to heal.

Listening during a spa treatment gives a client a sense of validation, and reinforces that someone cares for them.

Treating skin issues during spa treatments helps combat the psychological and social stress, depression, and fears of stigma that can impact a client’s life as a result of visible skin problems.  In many instances, we must refer to medical professionals or work alongside them, but there is much that can be done within an esthetician’s scope of practice.

Prevention is possible.    The esthetician can be an added source of early detection for skin cancer, and can also educate clients on basic protection.

Skin care products can nourish damaged skin.  A conscientious esthetician can spend time researching beneficial ingredients and products that are nontoxic, non-irritating, and noncarcinogenic, to use in her treatments and to recommend to her retail customers.

Many medical professionals are not very well-informed about what services estheticians can provide.  It is important that this information is shared with as many of them as possible.  However, we must acknowledge that the basic education for estheticians in the United States is limited (some states require only 300 hours or less).  Even in the best case, the initial schooling does not include the specialist knowledge needed to work on people with health challenges.  In Europe  and elsewhere, CIDESCO graduates do 2,000 hours of additional training for those credentials.

It’s Not For Everyone
Most estheticians are very caring people—–but when working with cancer patients, empathy is not enough.  There are two types of estheticians.  The first does her job, but has little time for advanced training.  She may not even believe the she needs further education.  These estheticians should not be working with clients who have significant medical problems.

Then there are the estheticians who ardently update their skills and knowledge with the latest information, equipment, and techniques available.  They go to trade shows, belong to credible organizations, and stay abreast of new trends.  These estheticians have the passion to perform esthetics in a professional manner, and can gain the knowledge that’s necessary to work with a specialized group of clients.  If this is a good description of you, with the right specialized training, your skills can be put to use helping clients with a serious health condition.

Working with Doctors
Unfortunately, many organizations and individuals have seen the opportunity to make a profit off cancer patients.  For this reason, many medical professionals will not support estheticians if they are seen to be soliciting the doctor’s patients.  There is a very fine line between soliciting and exploiting a cancer patient.  How can we reach out to them?

To convince a doctor that your services could be beneficial to his or her patients, the most important factors you will need to display are knowledge, credibility, and science-based evidence.

Knowledge.  If you intend to provide skincare services to people with a complex medical issue, you must acquire the knowledge to do it safely.  Products used to anyone with health-challenged skin must be completely clean formulations, containing nothing that could be detrimental to the skin or contribute further to the person’s illness.  Very few estheticians really understand how detrimental many common ingredients can be to a health-challenged person whose immune system is already overtaxed.  In addition, some products may interact with the client’s medication, and some techniques may be unsuitable.

Credibility.  An esthetician who wants to work regularly with cancer patients should be able to satisfy doctors that she has learned from an experienced person.  Any continuing education must come from a reputable person or institution with impeccable credentials.

Endless Options
With the appropriate training, estheticians can add a wide range of specialty services that will be of value to cancer patients.  These can cover many facets of esthetics:

Treatments for a variety of skin reaction caused by chemotherapy and radiation therapy; makeup eyebrow reconstruction; manual lymphatic drainage (MLD) massage; minimizing surgical scars; and even services like areola tattooing, which is the art of using permanent makeup to give the illusion of a natural nipple on a reconstructed breast.

However, the most important of all is the psychological benefit of having an esthetician trained specifically to ensure a safe and therapeutic spa visit for any client with a history of cancer.  Above all, spa services must not interfere with any medical protocol or treatment—they should be a complementary or integrative approach that adds to the client’s well-being.

Morag Currin is the author of Oncology Esthetics:  A Practitioner’s guide (Allured Publications, 2009), and has 17 years of experience in oncology esthetics, product development, and training.  Currin has worked with cancer patients in both a hospital and spa environment, which was her inspiration to create a textbook and trainings for estheticians.  She is a sought-after speaker and has contributed to Skin Deep, Skin Inc., Les Nouvelles Esthetiques, and a variety of other publications.