The Cost of Things…

Image taken from www.reesloveofwriting.blogspot.com.

They, whoever they are, were not kidding when they said, “from whom much is given, much is required”.

As I sit in my home office this Memorial Day, committed to being disciplined and working on the myriad of tasks and chores that comprise my to-do list, I think about the veterans who have given life and limb for this country.  I think of them in the same way as I do my ancestors, and I am grateful for their sacrifices.  Indeed, their sacrifices enable me to live my life freely, on my own terms, and as I choose.  There is no repayment except to recognize the gravity of the gift I have received.

Generally, when given the option to pay or play, I have to force myself to sit down and do the work that I need to do so that I can build the capacity to legitimately exercise the professional and personal freedoms that I enjoy.  I do a myriad of things that require depth as well as breadth which means there is ALWAYS plenty of work to be done….work that must be planned and actually done.

To some, this type of discipline represents constant work and is therefore unappealing.  However, I would argue that some discipline and “pain” are par for the course of life.  Could it be that we, that you, run from pain too easily?  Could it be that we want the benefits of pain while trying to skirt its potential scars?  I believe the question is more about what you value.  You are a better steward over the things you fully understand, the things that you understand in terms of knowing what they cost.  For the minimum wage worker, a pair of shoes isn’t $60; it’s a full day’s wages.  It is an exchange of their time for a product, and what is life if it isn’t time?  What did your ancestors give, and how has that allowed you to be you?  What has a veteran given so that you can live in a country, although imperfect, that gives you the chance to construct the framework for success in your life?

As you reflect on the sacrifices that enable you to be who you are, be sober.  Whether the sacrifices are you own personal ones or ones that have been made on your behalf, be sober.  Don’t take them for granted, and understand what they cost.

 

Okay, I’m spilling it!

My Skincare Products

I have been ordered to spill the beans on my skincare routine!  I kind of don’t mean  to brag, but I do have great skin….but I also work at it!  Also, as much I love makeup, my goal is to have great skin first.  I like feeling as if I wear makeup because I want to rather than because I’m hiding.  Also, because I’m maturing (I recently celebrated the 5^th anniversary of my 30^th birthday), I’m spending more time and energy on taking care of me.  It really is a myth that Black doesn’t crack!  Although it cracks differently than Caucasian skin, it still cracks.  Besides, I plan to be one of those grand divas in Essence magazine’s annual edition of beautiful older women.

Before we start looking at my routine, I should tell you about my skin.  First, I have combination skin.  My t-zone is generally oily; however, it is more oily in warmer months and less oily in cooler months.  To address this issue, I use a different cleanser and heavier moisturizer in the winter.  My cheeks tend to be normal (and slightly dry during cold weather months), but I experience dry scaly patches on my cheeks on both sides of my nose as a result of a skin damage.  More specifically, several years ago, I experienced a sunburn in that area, and the skin in that area has never been the same.  With this being said, my skincare routine is very important because caring for my t-zone CANNOT be done sloppily because the sun damaged areas can’t tolerate the same products as the rest of my face.

So, here goes!

#1)  I cleanse morning and night with glo Professionals Hydrating Gel Cleanser and follow that with glo’s Conditioning Tonic (the two products on the left of the photo).  I use the conditioning tonic so that I only wash my face once.  It should only take you about a 30 – 45 seconds to wash your face.  If you over wash your face, you strip and dry out your skin.  This is important for me because of the sun damaged spots.  Also, I make a point to use the tonic (tonic = toner) around my hair-line to remove any residue from makeup and hair products (During those times that I wear so much makeup that I look like a drag queen, I confess that I do wash my face twice!)

#2)  At night (see the product in the middle of the photo), I use the glo Clear Complexion pads in my t-zone and alone my lower jaw line.  Again, I avoid using the product in the sun damaged areas (Since the sunburn, I don’t get breakouts in that region any more –I’m terrified of an in-depth analysis of how badly damaged those sun-burned spots are).

#3)  During the day (see the products on the left), I mix the following products:
a)      glo’s Oil Control Emulsion;
b)      La Roche-Posay Anthelios Light SPF 60 sunscreen; and
c)      Glytone’s Face Lotion #1.

I mix a little of each product in my hand and apply all three to my face and neck at the same time.  It is important to point out that the Glytone face lotion really isn’t a moisturizer.  Yes, its called Face Lotion, but it is really a mild exfoliant which is great for keeping my skin fresh-looking and reducing breakouts.  By the way, I absolutely love the Anthelios sunscreen!  It dries to a matte finish and is very light and non-greasy.  It is important to add a little moisturizer, even to oily skin.  Oil and moisture aren’t the same.  Most people don’t realize that; therefore, they deprive their skin of moisturizer, particularly, if they have oily skin.  The problem is that by failing to do that, the body thinks something is wrong and produces even more oil.  And here’s what worse, when the body makes more oil, you tend to get more acne and therefore more acne scars.  STOP IT BEFORE IT STARTS!

Okay, so now that you have it!  Let me know if you have any questions about the products and how you might get your hands on them!

 

Burned up and out: EXHAUSTION!

I don’t often utter the words, “I’m tired”, but lately, I’ve said it more than a few times.   I’ve been disappointed in myself because I’ve felt like I was complaining, making constant excuses, and watching my productivity go up in flames.  I mean, how could the woman who doesn’t let grass grow under her feet be saying, “I’m tired” all the time????

As I began asking myself what had changed that I suddenly began to feel so tired, and I realized a few things:

1)  I was trying to develop a few new habits;

2)  I had also taken on overlapping obligations; and

3)  I had fallen down on my commitment to actually maintain certain habits.

Overall, I realized that I’d done what a lot of people do when trying to solidify new habits or a new lifestyle:  I under-estimated how much that it would take!  Breaking an old habit and doing the work associated with a new habit can seem simple on one hand, but it can also be disruptive to your lifestyle.  Sometimes, you need time and experience to fully anticipate how certain will affect how you live.  When I started my new venture, I anticipated implementation time, but the new habits required money, planning, and implementation.

In terms of my overlapping obligations, I got ahead of myself.  Although I’d done both before, I’d never committed to that volume of work simultaneously.  Moreover, with one of the obligations, I decided tweak my approach for greater effectiveness.  The tweaks worked, but they generated more work.  So, at this point, I was managing the chaos of new habit development and more work than I actually anticipated.

Finally, I realized that I had failed at maintaining personal rituals that restore and refresh me while giving me life.  I am a big journal-writing person.  It helps me stay focused.  Personally, I think so many people fail to improve their lives because they’re always in fast-forward mode all the while forgetting the value of rewinding.  Moreover, I had stopped reading, and I need to read periodically. Reading does something for me.  Depending on what I’m reading, a book can take me from being entertained to feeling super smart and worldly.  Ultimately, reading helps my intellectual self-esteem (I mean, physically, I know “I’m fine”, but you must work on that mind!).  It’s very important to maintain the things that make you whole.

So, you might ask, “what did I learn?”  Actually, I didn’t have a major “aha” moment.  It was a quiet lesson, a lesson that you learn which enables you to do better the next time.  It was one of those lessons that you know you need to remember because you know there will be a next time….like baking a cake and learning that your “cake life” is much easier when you take the butter out ahead of time:  hard butter doesn’t mix well.  Because you know you will bake another cake, you tuck away this lesson because you did notice that the cake tastes better when the ingredients are mixed through and through….and frankly, you just feel more confident when you do it right!

Finally, I realized that my “exhaustion” was just anxiety.  I had failed at properly planning for what I’d bitten off.  I think I’d compare the experience to having acid reflux (which I do have).  You know, if you don’t get flare ups often, you’re surprised at the pain because you really don’t think you have a problem; therefore, you don’t take precautions.  You’re even more surprised when you get a flare up from a new food.  I mean, you know to avoid the sun-dried tomatoes, but when a new dish sets off the charcoal brick in your stomach, you’re stunned!  Then, you feel disappointed in yourself and pop the Zantac to calm your discomfort.  While you wait for the Zantac to kick in, you know you’ll have to endure the pain, but you make note of what set you off so that you won’t have this experience again.  I guess its called growth!

 

Dermablend Smooth Indulgence Concealer

A while ago, I was asked to test a couple new products from Dermablend.  They have a new line of concealers and foundations in a new line called Smooth Indulgence.

Just like Dermablend’s most well-known concealer, the thick heavy one, the Smooth Indulgence concealer provides excellent  coverage!  However, it blends more easily and smoothly and doesn’t crease.  But more than anything, I love the way it dries to a powder finish!  The other thing to note about this product is that it sticks with you.  I’ve applied this product at the beginning of a photoshoot, and it still looks the same at the end of the shoot!  Just think, you could look just as fab at the end of a work day as you did at the beginning!

Now, here’s the rub:  you must have an excellent color match.  Once it sets, it is set!  As I’ve used it, I’ve found that the color is unchanged when you put powder on top of it.  Oftentimes, if a color is slightly off, it can be easily fixed with the appropriate powder; however, this concealer does NOT blend after it has dried.  So, if you use it, make sure you take the time to find the color that matches you best.  There’s is no fudging it!  If I were selling Dermablend products, I would probably recommend that you buy both the concealer and the matching powder together rather than trying to make the Dermablend concealer work with a powder you may have from another makeup line to get the best color match possible.

I’ll have to update you on the Smooth Indulgence Foundation later; however, on first glance, I think they are very similar!  I must say that if I had rosacea or other skin conditions that permanently affected the color of my skin, I would absolutely invest the time and money into trying to find a Dermablend color match.

ONE MORE THING!

I was also asked to try Dermablend’s line of brushes.  I REALLY LIKE THEM!  I have a thing for brushes to start with, but these brushes are truly good brushes.  In particular, I liked the concealer brush because its spherical tip allows you to apply product more easily and completely in the under eye area.  Its gets into the nooks and crannies of the skin which helps reduce creases and uneven application.

 

This post = diet FAIL!

STOP THE PRESSES!!!!  I made this cake this weekend!!!  It is a pretty good dessert, and it is really good with ice cream.  Here is the recipe:

1 box of yellow cake mix
1 large box (5.9 oz) box of instant chocolate pudding
1/2 cup of sugar
3/4 cup of water
1 cup of canola oil
4 eggs
1/4 cup vodka
1/4 cup Kahlua

Put all the ingredients in your mixer except the yellow cake mix and mix for a few minutes.  After these ingredients are well-mixed, after about 4 – 5 minutes, add the yellow cake mix and mix for another 3 – 5 minutes.

Prep bundt pan with oil and flour or take the easy way out and use Baker’s Joy spray.  Cook on 350 for 45 to 50 minutes.

Then, onto the glaze/sauce:
1/4 cup of kahlua
1/2 cup of sugar

Modifications:  I was drinking Smoking Loon’s Sweet Red Wine, chatting it up with my friend, Ericka, and forgot to put the sugar in the actual cake!  So, I added 1/4 cup of granulated sugar to the glaze and poured that into the cakes while it was hot.  It turned out fine, and I figured it would be because the yellow cake mix and pudding contained sugar.  Now, it is my thought that I’ll never add the additional sugar.  This recipe contains a ton of sugar, and it suggests that the cake be served with coffee ice cream!  Another modification:  I bought coffee ice cream and dulce de leche.  I could eat it with either….or vanilla bean .

Now, let’s focus on the wine.  It really is sweet!  That’s good and bad.  If you really like sweet, its great!  If you don’t, it is terrible!  You definitely need to let it breathe a little, but after a little time, its good.  Although I could be better at pairing wine with food, I don’t put much effort into so, so I drink wine with whatever I’m eating and go from there:  it went very well with hummus, grapes, cheese, apples, crackers, celery sticks, pears, and bread dipped in olive oil!

I think it is excellent for sangria!  If you don’t want a particularly potent sangria, I think you could get by without adding additional alcohol.  Here’s a sangria receipe from allrecipes.com!  Here’s a note from somebody who tried the allrecipes version:  I made it for 50 servings & everyone absolutely loved it!!!! No sugar & used gingerale instead of carbonated water; used rum, not brandy; used peach schnapps, not triple sec. Refrigerated all ingredients night before. Made it early that afternoon & sat container in an ice chest. Added cold gingerale just prior to serving. Sooooo good! Can’t wait to have another BBQ to make it again!  

 

Do you have a dog in the fight?

Tonight, while I was supposed to be doing something else, I gave in to the spirit of procrastination and watched The Great Debaters movie for the first time.  I know I’m a few years late!  I love Denzel (isn’t he handsome!) and Forrest Whitaker (he can certainly play a part!), but what drew me into the movie was a perspective that I came to at the end of it:  life is about fighting for what is yours!

I’m not sure if it’s ever been put to me in those exact terms although I am sure I’ve heard it before.  It simply, most likely, sounded like this:

1)   You’ll win if you don’t quit!
2)   Persevere!
3)  The race is not given to the swift, nor to the strong, but to he who endures.

I heard the first one from TD Jakes, the second one from some person or source that I can’t recall, and the last one, a scripture, undoubtedly came during a personal encouragement session proffered by my Uncle Frank.  However, I think I’m just finally starting to get it (I’ve been told that I can be a bit slow which is why I collect turtles).

I really must fight to have the things I want, the life I want, the happiness I want, the “whatever” it is I want.  But the key isn’t the fight!  Rather, it is the absolute certainty about what it is you want.  Once you really figure out what you want, you have something to fight over, to fight for.

Think about it:  even if you are heavily invested, it is still easy to walk away from something you don’t really want.  Have you ever been dating someone, or even in a relationship, and the person does something to offend you and you just end it?  Just like that, you cut it, and him, off.  I’m willing to bet that you were waiting for some reason to go, that you were grateful for the ability to blame “quitting him” on him.  The lack of true and abiding passion and desire for a thing is what tempts you when you come across an exit sign or get a glimpse of greener grass whether that greener grass is a new lover, new job, or new whatever.

Once you figure out what you really want, your fight is born.  Life is rife with opportunity to start new things, and it is also filled with opportunities to quit things.  However, once you figure out what you want, you can set your path and priorities.  You know just what to take off your plate, and you begin working mighty hard to get the right stuff on your plate!  Once you know what you want, you petition God a bit differently.  You seek direction on “how to” rather than “whether to”.  Once you know what you want, you have a dog in the fight because you’re trying to get what you believe is yours.

Believe it or not, you’ll even take some flack over your conviction…oftentimes, a lot of flack.  In this movie, one of the main characters, Mr. Tolson (played by Denzel Washington) was pushing to organize (unionize) farmers.  He was arrested (perhaps many times) and ostracized as his organization grew to over 30,000 members.  Now, I must say that I am not excited about farming work or share-cropping.  It is possible that Mr. Tolson wasn’t either.  It is entirely possible that he was compelled, not by the labor of the farmers, but by the economic injustice being imposed upon them.  Whatever his compulsion, his logic, his rationale, his passion, once it had seared a place in his heart, he persevered.  He kept going back despite being called a communist, being asked to resign his position, and being blacklisted professionally.

Before I return to the work that I was supposed to do when I started watching the movie, I have one final point:  there is a difference between endurance and perseverance.  When you are in a thing because it is a means to an end, you endure.  Indeed, you can do many things because you have to.  How many people do you know who have jobs they hate, but stay because they are mired in debt, status, and other trappings?  How many people do you know who maintain family obligations, not because they enjoy them, but because they are bound by duty?  They may maintain their charge, but they certainly aren’t in love with it.  Even if they quit the thing, they don’t miss it.  They may miss the routine of it, the busyness of it, but not it.  Even so, there is no shame in endurance, and more people need the discipline of it.  Indeed, there is nobility in endurance; however, there is fire in perseverance!

You endure when you refuse to cave during the attack, but you persevere when you start the fight, that uphill fight!  Go fight something!  Go persevere!  ….and I’m going to do the same!

 

Testing, Testing 1-2-3

this is only a test!

 

Hazards of Waxing

This article taken from the November/December 2011 edition of Skin Deep Magazine.

Hazards of Waxing:  Handling the three most common problem by Crickett Enos*, “The Wax Chick”  crickett@thewaxchick.com  

Waxing is a daily occurrence in the life of most estheticians.  We have honed our technique, we know what wax to use, and our customer service skills are topnotch.  What else is there to know?  As professionals, it is our responsibility to know that to do when something goes awry, or when we are presented with a condition that falls outside of what we normally see.

When waxing goes wrong, the most common risks are skin lifting, ingrown hair, and the development of keloid or hypertrophic scarring.  Though these incidents may be few and far between, they can turn an otherwise ordinary waxing service into a nightmare for both client and esthetician.  That is why it is absolutely essential to know the hazards of waxing and how to mitigate problems, should they arise.

Skin Lifting Skin lifting is one waxing problem that strikes terror in the hearts of most professionals.  We’ve all be there, or imagined it:  along in the treatment room with our client, happily waxing away without a care in the world–until we remove the wax and the skin comes with it.

At the point, we’re usually wishing we had removed half an eyebrow instead.  At least then we could fill it in with pencil.  After some very choice expletives dance through our heads, we think, “How did that happen?”

Lifting happens when both dead and live skin cells are pulled off with the wax, creating an abrasion similar to scraping one’s knee.  When lifting is visible, the area will be shiny and slightly “dewy” and the client may report a stinging sensation.  However, depending on the client’s skin tone, the abrasion may not visible.  In fact, the client may not even realize that anything out of the ordinary has happened until a day or two later when a scab starts to form.

Why does skin lift?  Here are a few of the top reasons: 1)  Poor technique.  If you pull up when removing the wax, or do not hold the skin taut, this can cause lifting to occur. 2)  Incorrect wax temperature.  Both hard and soft wax will have a greater risk of causing lifting if the wax is too warm.  Soft wax an also cause lifting if it too cold, as it can become gummy on the skin. 3)  Compromised skin.  If the client’s skin is dry, dehydrated, or flakey, the risk of lifting increases. 4)  If the client is using certain medications (systemic and /or topical) that make the skin thinner or more sensitive, lifting may occur.  Two examples are prednisone or Retin-A.

If lifting happens during a waxing session, some basic first-aid treatment will be needed.  As mentioned, lifting is an abrasion and should be treated accordingly.  An abrasion will go through the normal process of scab formation, peeling, and healing. The object is to keep the skin hydrated and protected during this time to minimize the client’s discomfort.  Suggest the use of an over-the-counter salve such as Neosporin to protect the area against bacteria and keep the area hydrated.  There is not much else that can be done to speed the healing process, beyond letting nature take its course.

In the event of more severe lifting, or if there is bleeding, cover the abrasion with a bandage if possible and refer your client to a physician.

Prevention is best.   First and foremost, analyze the skin prior to waxing.  This is especially important for brow and Brazilian waxing.  Skin in these areas tends to be more delicate, making lifting more of a possibility.  On the face, women are using more anti-aging products, which can lead to even thinner skin around the eye area.  In the Brazilian area, the creases of the upper legs and buttocks make be severely dry and dehydrated–after all, who moisturizes their buttocks?

Noticing signs of compromised skin during the initial consultation can prevent pain for your client and trouble for you.  If the client’s skin is too compromised to wax, it’s always better to be safe than sorry.  let the client know why it would be unsafe to perform the service, send her home with the proper pre-wax product to improve th condition of the skin, and reschedule so that she can safely receive her waxing service at a later date.

Remember, even if have done all we can do to make sure lifting doesn’t occur, it can still happen.  The best we can do is to be prepared.

Ingrown Hair Ingrown hair can be exacerbated by waxing treatments, so it’s good to have an understanding of this condition.  An ingrown hair is a hair that gets trapped underneath the surface of the skin.  If the growing hair is able to exit the pore (follicle), its only option is to curl back down into the skin.  Ingrown hairs appear to lie flat just under the surface, running parallel with the skin, or they can turn back into the follicle, creating an infection in the skin that can exhibit as red and bumpy.

Though anyone can get them, ingrown hairs most often occur in clients with thick, coarse, and/or curly hair, and in those with an overabundance of dead cell buildup, and dry or dehydrated skin.  Friction and improper shaving or waxing techniques may also contribute to the formation of these not-so-welcome visitors.  Clients who get ingrown hairs from shaving may not get them from waxing, and vice versa; however, there are those who will get them no matter what.

so, what can we do as estheticians to help our clients deals with this troublesome condition?  As we learned earlier, if the skin is in poor condition (dry/dehydrated), the hair will not be able to exit the follicle.  Proper exfoliation plays a huge part in keeping the surface free of dead cells.  The client can exfoliate at home with a light scrub or loofah, followed by a hydrating product to keep the skin supple, which will allow the hair to break through the surface.  In-office treatments (such as a light chemical peel or hydrating treatments) may also be offered to encourage hairs to exit the pores.

The only thing that is not recommended is for the esthetician to extract an ingrown hair.  Unless the technician has been trained to do so, attempting to extract the hair can lead to infection or scarring, creating more discomfort for the client.

For the clients who are severely affected by ingrown hair, it is a good course of action to refer them to a physician or certified professional who offers clinical treatment options for hair removal, such as laser or electrolysis.  Waxing may not be the best method for these clients.  Another treatment option you can suggest to them is sugaring which removes the hair while also removing dead cell buildup, so that trapped hair can be released.  for clients who have between treatments instruct them to use a Bump Fighter razor.  These razors are designed to cut the hair just above the skin, so regrowth won’t get trapped.

Keloid and Hypertrophic Scarring Keloid and hypertrophic scars are similar in appearance and can be difficult to tell apart.  The only characteristic they share is that they are both scar tissue.

Keloids are typically thick, fibrous, tumor-like growths that extend beyond the boundaries of the original wound, such as an infected ingrown hair.  This is why, tempting as it may be, extracting an ingrown hair is not recommended–not everyone who gets ingrown hairs will experience scarring, but it is certainly a risk.  Hypertrophic scars are elevated and may resemble keloids, but they do not extend beyond the original area of the wound, and unlike keloids they may reduce over time.  In the Brazilian area, where we see raised scarring, it is most likely to be hypertrophic.

Anyone can scar, but those most prone to keloid or hypertrophic scarring are those with a genetic predisposition and those with darker skin (Fitzpatrick types IV, V, VI).

If your client has a predisposition to keloid or hypertrophic scarring, performing a thorough analysis and recommending proper aftercare is key to executing a safe hair removal service.  Exfoliation and hydration, as mentioned previously, should be used to reduce the risk of ingrown hairs so that scars do not have a chance to form.

Who knew there was so much to take into consideration when waxing?  As professionals, we need to pay attention to the skin and listen to it when it talks to us.  Lifting, ingrown hair, and scarring may not be common, but if we know what to do when we encounter these issues, we can become heroes to our clients.  Stay educated, keep current, and involve your clients in the process.

*Written by Crickett Enos, “The Wax Chick”  crickett@thewaxchick.com Cricket is a licensed esthetician in California, with more than 10 years of experience in the beauty industry, six of them as an instructor in advanced eyebrown design and Brazilian waxing.  She is also a certified makeup artist, certified Alexandria Sugaring professional, and has a degree in business administration.   This article was originally published in the November/December 2011 edition of Skin Deep Magazine published by the Associated Skin Care Professionals.

 

Working with Cancer Patients

This article taken from the January/February 2012 edition of Skin Deep Magazine.

Working with Cancer Patients:  The benefits are many, but training is key
By Mo’rag Currin

In any group of estheticians, there are those who have encountered cancer in their life’s journey.  You may be a survivor yourself, or you may have supported a family member or friend.  Whether you know it or not, its likely that you have more than one client who is a cancer survivor.

Skin care clients who are cancer survivors are not just a niche market, as evidenced by statistics about the four most common types of cancer.  According to the American Cancer Society, there are approximately 400,000 lung cancer survivors, and 13 million skin cancer survivors in the United Stated today.

Many cancer patients do not know that a visit to an experienced esthetician can provide them with a safe haven and safe treatments.  Some may have enjoyed spa visits in the past, but now do not know what  information to provide to a spa therapist about their medical condition, and some will not admit to undergoing cancer treatment.

As estheticians, our services can provide many benefits to a client undergoing cancer treatment, and most definitely during the recovery process.  Those of us who work with people undergoing cancer treatment find it both meaningful and rewarding.  The benefits of our work may seem like simple things, but they are psychologically important:

Touch during a spa treatment can soothe, comfort, and convey caring in a way words never can.  It can ease pain, lessen anxiety, and generate hope and the power to heal.

Listening during a spa treatment gives a client a sense of validation, and reinforces that someone cares for them.

Treating skin issues during spa treatments helps combat the psychological and social stress, depression, and fears of stigma that can impact a client’s life as a result of visible skin problems.  In many instances, we must refer to medical professionals or work alongside them, but there is much that can be done within an esthetician’s scope of practice.

Prevention is possible.    The esthetician can be an added source of early detection for skin cancer, and can also educate clients on basic protection.

Skin care products can nourish damaged skin.  A conscientious esthetician can spend time researching beneficial ingredients and products that are nontoxic, non-irritating, and noncarcinogenic, to use in her treatments and to recommend to her retail customers.

Many medical professionals are not very well-informed about what services estheticians can provide.  It is important that this information is shared with as many of them as possible.  However, we must acknowledge that the basic education for estheticians in the United States is limited (some states require only 300 hours or less).  Even in the best case, the initial schooling does not include the specialist knowledge needed to work on people with health challenges.  In Europe  and elsewhere, CIDESCO graduates do 2,000 hours of additional training for those credentials.

It’s Not For Everyone
Most estheticians are very caring people—–but when working with cancer patients, empathy is not enough.  There are two types of estheticians.  The first does her job, but has little time for advanced training.  She may not even believe the she needs further education.  These estheticians should not be working with clients who have significant medical problems.

Then there are the estheticians who ardently update their skills and knowledge with the latest information, equipment, and techniques available.  They go to trade shows, belong to credible organizations, and stay abreast of new trends.  These estheticians have the passion to perform esthetics in a professional manner, and can gain the knowledge that’s necessary to work with a specialized group of clients.  If this is a good description of you, with the right specialized training, your skills can be put to use helping clients with a serious health condition.

Working with Doctors
Unfortunately, many organizations and individuals have seen the opportunity to make a profit off cancer patients.  For this reason, many medical professionals will not support estheticians if they are seen to be soliciting the doctor’s patients.  There is a very fine line between soliciting and exploiting a cancer patient.  How can we reach out to them?

To convince a doctor that your services could be beneficial to his or her patients, the most important factors you will need to display are knowledge, credibility, and science-based evidence.

Knowledge.  If you intend to provide skincare services to people with a complex medical issue, you must acquire the knowledge to do it safely.  Products used to anyone with health-challenged skin must be completely clean formulations, containing nothing that could be detrimental to the skin or contribute further to the person’s illness.  Very few estheticians really understand how detrimental many common ingredients can be to a health-challenged person whose immune system is already overtaxed.  In addition, some products may interact with the client’s medication, and some techniques may be unsuitable.

Credibility.  An esthetician who wants to work regularly with cancer patients should be able to satisfy doctors that she has learned from an experienced person.  Any continuing education must come from a reputable person or institution with impeccable credentials.

Endless Options
With the appropriate training, estheticians can add a wide range of specialty services that will be of value to cancer patients.  These can cover many facets of esthetics:

Treatments for a variety of skin reaction caused by chemotherapy and radiation therapy; makeup eyebrow reconstruction; manual lymphatic drainage (MLD) massage; minimizing surgical scars; and even services like areola tattooing, which is the art of using permanent makeup to give the illusion of a natural nipple on a reconstructed breast.

However, the most important of all is the psychological benefit of having an esthetician trained specifically to ensure a safe and therapeutic spa visit for any client with a history of cancer.  Above all, spa services must not interfere with any medical protocol or treatment—they should be a complementary or integrative approach that adds to the client’s well-being.

Morag Currin is the author of Oncology Esthetics:  A Practitioner’s guide (Allured Publications, 2009), and has 17 years of experience in oncology esthetics, product development, and training.  Currin has worked with cancer patients in both a hospital and spa environment, which was her inspiration to create a textbook and trainings for estheticians.  She is a sought-after speaker and has contributed to Skin Deep, Skin Inc., Les Nouvelles Esthetiques, and a variety of other publications.  

 

Acne and Hormones

This article is taken from the July/August 2011 issue of Skin Deep Magazine

Too often, clients want an immediate appointment at a medical office, or they call to find out what actions they can take to get rid of, or decrease, the breakout.  To treat acne effectively, an esthetician and physician should work together to minimize acne’s underlying causes.  Clients must be on a stable skin care regimen that maintains a good balance of oil and hydration levels so that breakouts do not occur.  However, this regimen may change depending on the weather, the season, and for some women, what point they are at in their menstrual cycle.

Women can have naturally occurring high levels of testosterone or a condition called polycystic ovary syndrome (POS); both can lead to increased bouts of acne.  POS is a condition characterized by the accumulation of numberous cysts on the ovaries.  It’s associated with high levels of male hormone, chronic anovulation (absent ovulation), and other metabolic disturbances.  One of the most important characteristics of POS is hyperandrogenism — the excess production of male hormones (androgens), particularly testosterone, by the ovaries.  This accounts for the male hair growth patterns and acne in women in POS.  Androgen production can be reduced or blunted by taking hormone modulators prescribed by a medical professional.

Many women notice that their acne breakouts are less severe when they are taking birth control pills.  This is because birth control pills cause testosterone levels to drop.  These male hormones are responsible for the development of the male reproductive system and secondary male sexual characteristics, such as voice depth and facial hair.  In men, testosterone is produced in large quantities by the testes, but it also occurs normally in smaller quantities in women.  A side effect of testosterone production in both sexes is that it increases oil production and the frequency of acne breakouts.

There is a temporary pharmaceutical aid to treating POS, called spironolactone.  Spironolactone is a diuretic, which means that it increases the amount of urine passed, causing the body to lose water and salt.  It helps treat medical conditions, such as heart, liver, or kidney disease.  It also (sometimes quite effectively) blocks the release of excess hormones like testosterone.  However, patients must take spironolactone regularly, or hormone production simply resumes when the medication is stopped.  Spironolactone can also negatively affect a male fetus, and therefore cannot be given to pregnant women or women thinking of becoming pregnant.  It’s important that patients taking spironolactone are followed closely by their physician, so that blood pressure and potassium levels (which are affected by the drug) can be monitored.

This is but one of several effective medical treatments for acne, all of which require patience and adherence to a regimen for best results.

Editor’s note:  This article describes the relationship between hormonal conditions and acne breakouts, and how an esthetician might be involved in treating various symptoms while working in conjunction with a physician.